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Appendix M

In the early part of 1848, Lieut. H. W. Halleck, of the Engineers, was ordered to make a reconnoisance of the coast of Lower California, with reference to the location of works of military defence. In his report to Colonel Mason, after giving a general description of the coast and harbors, and proposing a system of military defence, he submits some remarks upon the commercial and military importance of the peninsula. The whole report is interesting, and furnishes the most correct information upon the subject of the reconnoisance. It will form an interesting conclusion to a work which has been principally devoted to a description and history of Upper California.

La Paz, April 12, 1848.

Sir: In compliance with the instructions of the commanding general of the department to make a "reconnoisance of the coast of California, with reference to the location of works of military defence," I reported in my last upon so much as relates to the upper province, and I now submit a few remarks on the military defence of the peninsula of Lower California.

I. General description of the coast and harbors.– The principal ports of the coast of Lower California, visited by whaling and merchant vessels, are San Quintin, Magdalena, San Jose, La Paz, Escondido (near Loreto), and Mulige. – There are some other points which vessels occasionally touch for supplies and at trade, but they are comparatively of little commercial or military importance. The port of San Quintin, in latitude thirty degrees twenty-three minutes, is represented as affording a secure anchorage for vessels of every description, and to be sufficiently commodious for the reception of a numerous fleet. The extensive bay of Magdalena has acquired considerable notoriety from its being resorted to every winter by large numbers of whaling vessels. Its size gives it the character of an inland sea, its waters being navigable for the distance of more than a hundred miles. It furnishes several places of safe and commodious anchorage. The bay of San Jose, near Cape Saint Lucas, is much frequented by coasting vessels, and occasionally visited by whalers and men-of-war. Being the outlet of a fertile valley, extending some forty or fifty miles into the interior, it is probably the best place in the peninsula for supplying shipping with water and fresh provisions. It is, however, a mere roadstead, affording no protection whatever during the season of southeasters.

La Paz is the seat of government and the principal port of Lower California, and its extensive bay affords excellent places of anchorage for vessels of any size, and is sufficiently commodious for the most numerous fleets. The principal pearl fisheries are in this immediate vicinity, and also the most valuable mining districts. It is the outlet of the fertile valley of the Todos Santos, and of the produce of the whole country between Santiago and Loreto. The cove or estero, opposite the town of La Paz, furnishes spacious and safe anchorage, which may be reached by vessels drawing not more than eighteen or twenty feet of water; and the cove of Pichilingue, at the south-eastern extremity of the bay, and about six miles from the town, affords an excellent anchorage for vessels of any size; but the inner bay can be reached only by small merchant vessels. The bar, however, between the two is only a few yards in extent; and if the importance of the place should ever justify it, the channel might be made deeper without difficulty or great expense. The adjacent country being barren and mountainous, and the roads to the interior exceedingly difficult, this place can never be the outlet of much agricultural produce. But as the island of Carmen, nearly opposite the entrance to this bay, contains an almost inexhaustible supply of salt, very easy of access, it is possible that the trade in this article may eventually give considerable importance to the port of Escondido.

The bay of Mulige contains several places of anchorage, but none of them are deemed safe for large vessels, or even from small vessels, at all seasons of the year. There are also several other parts in the gulf farther north which are occasionally visited by coasting vessels, but it is not known that any of them are likely to be of much commercial importance.

II. Proposed system of defence.– It is not supposed that, under existing circumstances, any military post will be necessary on the western coast of the peninsula; nor is it probable that, for many years, any place there will become of sufficient importance to justify the construction of military works for its defence. It is true that the whale fishery on this coast has become, from the amount of shipping engaged in it, an object of the highest consideration; but our having ports of refuge at San Francisco or San Diego, and at La Paz, strong enough to resist a naval coup de main, will, it is believed, afford sufficient security to these whalers in case of a war with a maritime power.

On our arrival here in October last, it was deemed desirable to establish a small military post at San Jose, for the double purpose of giving protection to the friendly inhabitants against a band of Mexican freebooters who had crossed the gulf from Guaynas to Mulige and Loreto, and of preventing the further introduction of men and munitions from the opposite coast. The old mission building was found well adapted to the purpose in view, and with a few repairs and improvements served as an admirable protection for the little garrison in the several attacks which it afterwards sustained from greatly superior forces. It will probably be necessary to continue this post during the war with Mexico, or at least so long as there is any danger of the enemy's sending troops from the opposite coast to again disturb the tranquillity of the peninsula; but it is not deemed advisable to establish at this place any works of permanent defence, the character of the port not being such as to warrant expenditures for this purpose. The defences of the cuartel or mission building are deemed sufficient for all purposes of temporary occupation.

Should the war with Mexico continue, and the naval forces be again withdrawn from the gulf, it may be necessary to establish temporarily a small military post at Mulige; but no permanent garrison will be required either at that place or Escondido, unless, perhaps, hereafter the commercial importance of the latter port should justify such a measure.

La Paz is, therefore, the only port in Lower California which it will be necessary, for the present, to occupy with a permanent military force, or to secure by means of fortifications. For temporary purposes, the site of the old cuartel is well suited for the construction of defensive barracks, inasmuch as it commands the town, and may readily be secured against an attack from the side. The buildings at present occupied as barracks are not judiciously located. A permanent work on Punta Colorada will completely close the entrance to Pichilingue cove, and its heavy guns will reach the entrance to the channel of La Paz; but to give the requisite security to the latter, a small battery will be necessary on Punta Prieta. The topographical features of both these points are favorable for the construction of small fortifications: Stone of good quality for building purposes is found in the immediate vicinity, and good lime may be procured at the distance of only a few miles. Quarries have been opened in the "Calaveras," and the stone, though soft and easily worked, is found to be in this climate of a very durable character. La Paz is not difficult to defend against a naval attack, and the proposed fortifications may be constructed in a short time and without a very large expenditure of money. The commercial character of the place, its military importance as connected with the defence of the peninsula, its great value as a naval depôt and port of refuge for our commercial and military marine in case of war with any naval power, will, it is believed, fully justify the expenditures necessary for securing this port against a maritime attack.

III. Commercial and military importance of Lower California.– Thus far in my report I have proceeded on the supposition that it is the intention of our government to retain the whole of California in any treaty of peace with Mexico; but doubts have recently been expressed on the policy of retaining this peninsula, on account of its being of little or no value to the United States. As the guerrilla forces which were sent over from Mexico the past summer, during the absence of our squadron from this coast, to regain possession of Lower California, and force the inhabitants to their allegiance to the Mexican government, have been defeated and completely dispersed, leaving our own troops in undisputed possession of the territory, nothing but a conviction of the utter worthlessness of the country could now induce our government to consent to its abandonment. On this subject I beg leave to add a few remarks:

The peninsula of California lies between twenty-two degrees fifty minutes and thirty-two degrees thirty minutes north latitude, being about seven hundred miles in length, and varying from fifty to one hundred miles in breadth. An irregular chain or broken ridge of mountains extend from Cape St. Lucas to the frontiers of Upper California, with spurs running off on each side to the gulf and ocean. Between these spurs are numerous broad plains covered with stunted trees, and during the rainy months with a thin but nutricious grass. In the dry season this grass is parched up like hay, but from its nutricious character it affords abundant food for the herds of cattle and horses which constitute the principal wealth of rancheros. The dryness of the soil prevent the growth of trees of any considerable magnitude, except on the borders of a few mountain streams. This timber, though far from being plentiful, is exceedingly durable and much esteemed in ship-building. The greatest height of the mountains is estimated five thousand feet; many of them are piles of mere broken rocks, while others are covered with grass, shrubbery, and small trees. The plains are sandy and mostly unproductive – not, however, from any natural barrenness in the soil, but from a deficiency of water. There are but few durable streams in the whole country, and streams of good water are extremely scarce. But in the plains and most of the dry beds of rivers water can be obtained by digging wells only a few feet in depth; and wherever irrigation has been resorted to by means of these wells, the produce of the soil, from its remarkable fertility, has abundantly rewarded the labor of the agriculturist. Much of this soil is of volcanic origin, having been washed from the mountains by the action of heavy rains, and the produce extracted by means of irrigation from these apparently barren and unprolific sands is something most marvellous. The general aspect of the country on the coast is exceedingly barren and forbidding, but I have seen no instance where the soil is properly cultivated that the labor bestowed on it is not well rewarded. The growth of vegetation is exceedingly rapid, and the soil and climate are such as to produce nearly all the tropical fruits in great perfection. But the inhabitants are disinclined to agriculture, and most of them live indolent and roving lives, subsisting principally upon their herds. Notwithstanding the unfavorable character of the country, it is capable, in the hands of an industrious and agricultural people, of supporting a population much more numerous than the present. In the time of the missions, when very small portions of the soil were cultivated, and even these but rudely, by the Indians, the four districts of San Jose, Santiago, San Antonio, and Todos Santos contained a population of thirty-five thousand souls, whereas, the present population of the same districts is only seven thousand.

The agricultural products of Lower California are maize, sugar-cane, potatoes, dates, figs, grapes, quinces, lemons, and olives. A considerable quantity of hides, beef, cheese, soap, sugar, figs, raisins, &c., is annually exported to Mexico and Upper California, flour and merchandise being received in exchange. The vegetable market of Mazatlan is also in part supplied from the valley of San José.

But the value of Lower California does not result from its being either a grazing or agricultural country. Its fisheries, mines, commerce, and the influence of its geographical position, are matters of much higher importance than its agricultural productions.

The whole coast of the peninsula abounds with fish; clams and oysters are found in great plenty and of every variety. The islands of the gulf abound with seal, and the whaling grounds on the Pacific coast are of great value. During the past year Magdalena bay alone has, at one time, contained as many as twenty-eight sail, all engaged in this fishery. The pearl fishery is also exceedingly valuable. Formerly, when it was conducted with system and regularity, the annual produce of a single vessel with thirty or forty divers, between the months of July and October, usually amounted to about $60,000; and now, badly as the fishery is conducted, the annual exportation of pearls amounts to between forty and fifty thousand dollars. Tortoise and pearl shells are also articles of exportation.

Lower California contains valuable mines of gold, silver, copper, and lead; but, for the want of capital, very few of these are worked, and this in the rudest manner possible. Nevertheless, the labor expended on them is well rewarded; and there can be no doubt that with capital and suitable means they would yield very handsome profits. The salt mines on Carmen island are capable of supplying the whole coast of Mexico and California; already the duties on this article amount to a considerable sum.

The commerce of the peninsula is now very limited, being principally confined to a coasting trade with the ports of Mexico. The whole population of the country is but little more than ten thousand, and the annual imports and exports are estimated at $300,000. But in our hands this commerce, freed from the absurd restrictions imposed by Mexico, will soon receive a very great extension. La Paz will become the principal depot of American goods for the western coast of Mexico; and in a few years most foreign goods intended for this coast will also be deposited in the warehouses of Lower California, to be transferred to the ports of Mexico at such times and in such quantities as the demands of the market may require. In the present variable state of Mexican trade, resulting from an irregular and fluctuating tariff, which differs for each port and changes with every change of general or state administration, it is frequently necessary to transfer vessels with their cargoes from one port to another, or to keep them for weeks at sea, standing off and on, so as to enable the agents to arrange the rate of duties at the custom-house before landing the cargoes. Sometimes the consignees are obliged to send their vessels to the Sandwich islands or Valparaiso until a change of administration will enable them to avoid the exorbitant demands of some petty governor or collector of customs. Moreover, the principal commercial ports of this coast (Mazatlan and San Blas) are inaccessible to merchant vessels for four months of each year, and during that time are visited only by small coasters. But, with Lower California in our possession, merchant vessels of whatever character, at all seasons and in all winds, can find a refuge in La Paz, and their cargoes despatched in such quantities and to such points of the opposite coast as circumstances may justify. This place in a few years will be what Mazatlan now is, and Mazatlan experience the fate of San Blas and Acapulco.

The importance, however, of this port results mainly from its geographical position, and the influence it is likely to exert as a military and naval depot upon our commercial interests in the Pacific. The port of San Francisco, in Upper California, should be well fortified, and every care taken to make it a harbor of refuge for our merchant and military marine, in case of a maritime war; but it must be remembered that that place is nearly fifteen hundred miles from the nearest port of Mexico, and that it is very far north of some of the best whaling grounds in the Pacific, and too distant to afford much protection to our commerce with Central America, although its position gives it a controlling influence over the commerce of Sandwich Islands, Upper California, and Oregon. In the same way a well-fortified naval station at La Paz, from its immediate proximity to the coast of Mexico, would have a most beneficial influence on our commercial and whaling interest in this part of the Pacific. The great value, in time of maritime war, of such key points as La Paz, and the commanding influence exercised by them in the protection of commerce, have become settled principles in military defence; and England shows her appreciation of their truth, and the wisdom of her own policy, in establishing stations and points like St. Helena, Cape of Good Hope, Gibraltar, Malta, Corfu, and Bermuda.

Again, the growing commerce of California and Oregon, and the political importance of our possessions on the Pacific, render it necessary that we should have some means of rapid communication between them and the seat of government at Washington. This communication must be effected by the isthmus of Panama or of Tehuantepec. In either case steamers bound to Upper California and the Columbia River must have one or more intermediate depots of fuel; and in time of war it is important that these depots be established in our own rather than in a hostile territory. A glance at the map will show that La Paz is nearly equidistant from the extremities of this line; and that Tehuantepec, La Paz, and San Francisco divide into four equal parts the whole distance from Panama to Oregon. Moreover, as this ocean is peculiarly suited to steam navigation, a large part of the commerce of the Pacific must eventually be carried on in steam vessels; and in all probability not many years will elapse before a portion of our naval force in these waters is of the same character. Under this supposition, the importance of our possessing some naval depot and harbor of refuge and repair south of Upper California is too manifest to require argument or illustration.

But whatever may be thought of the value of this peninsula or of the gulf as a natural boundary between us and Mexico, instead of an imaginary line drawn from the Colorado to the Pacific, thus separating a kindred people, and exposing the governments of the two territories to continual collisions, the propriety of retaining Lower California is, in my opinion, now no longer an open question. When this country was first taken possession of by the forces of the United States, the people were promised the protection of our government against Mexico, and guarantied the rights secured by our Constitution; and in November, 1847, they were assured by the commander-in-chief of the Pacific squadron, (with the approbation of the Secretary of the Navy,) that this territory would be permanently retained by the American government; and again, by the President of the United States, in his annual message of December, 1847, that it "should never be given up to Mexico." Acting under these assurances, all the most respectable people of the territory not only refused to take part with the Mexican forces which were sent to attempt the recapture of that country from the Americans, but many of them actually took up arms in our defence, and rendered most valuable services in ridding the peninsula of the guerrilla hordes sent over from Mexico for the purpose of effecting our expulsion. In this conflict, some who thus sided with us lost their lives, many their property, and all have exposed themselves to the vengeance of the Mexican government. But these losses and dangers they have willingly encountered, in the hope of obtaining the better government of the United States. They have regarded these promises as made in good faith, and have been guided in their conduct by the assurances thus held out to them by the agents of the American government; and now, for the United States to voluntarily surrender this country to the republic of Mexico, and leave these Californians exposed to the loss of life and confiscation of property for having sided with us, under the assurances thus held out to them, would not only be in itself a breach of national faith, but would make us appear in the eyes of the world guilty of the most deliberate and cruel deception.