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Rochecotte, May 11, 1842.– Newspapers yesterday told us of the dreadful accident that happened on the railway on the left bank from Versailles to Paris: the details are appalling. Galignani gives them in full, though the exact number or the names of the dead are not yet known. The bodies, especially those which suffered from fire, are so disfigured as to make identification impossible. Since the railways were opened, this is the greatest, the most complicated and dreadful accident which has occurred. I think the damages should be enormous; the authorities will then be more careful, for accidents only happen from want of precaution and attention.
Rochecotte, May 15, 1842. (Whit Sunday.)– M. de Barante arrived yesterday at the end of the morning, pleasant, kind and affectionate as ever. The people he found here are something of an obstacle to conversation. He told me no news of any importance and his own future remains very uncertain. If the health of M. de La Tour Maubourg remains as deplorable as it is, he will be obliged to retire and Barante will then go to Rome. The question of St. Petersburg may remain open for a long time.
The only topic of conversation at Paris is the lavish magnificence of Mr. Hope's residence and the entertainments given there. They are said to equal nothing less than the drawing-rooms of Versailles under Louis XIV.63
Rochecotte, May 16, 1842.– Yesterday as I was driving to mass at the parish church, the coachman insisted upon taking a wrong turning through the woods in spite of my remonstrances. He upset the carriage and broke his right leg. Madame de Sainte-Aldegonde and myself were sitting at the back of the carriage, Madame de Dino and M. de Barante in front, while Jacques was on the seat behind. He jumped in time and suffered no harm: Barante and my daughter-in-law were also unscathed; as I was sitting on the side towards which the carriage overturned, Madame de Sainte-Aldegonde fell upon me and I was thus crushed by my neighbour and the hood of the carriage. We were rescued by some people who were going to mass. Madame de Sainte-Aldegonde wrenched the muscles of her neck in trying to hold herself back; but the only real subject for pity was the coachman. The rest of the day was spent in recovering from the shock of this event and in the various little cares necessitated by it.
Rochecotte, May 17, 1842.– I am still shaken by the fall of the day before yesterday and feel some pain from the bruises which were caused by it. It will be several days before the effects of this accident have entirely worn off. The coachman is going on as well as can be expected.
Yesterday I spent almost the whole of the morning sitting in the open air in charming weather. There is no news of any kind, nor did anything happen of the least interest during the day. Barante's interesting and charming conversation is a great resource for me during the few days that he is spending here. It is a long time since such a piece of good luck fell to my share. I am enjoying it infinitely, and with the more satisfaction because my belief in him is as complete as my pleasure is real. He is upright, trustworthy and kind to such an extent that he can be entirely relied upon. He is a deeply pious character and his intellect is neither exhausted nor limited.
Rochecotte, May 30, 1842.– Yesterday we went to the parish church for the Fête Dieu. We followed the procession in a blazing sun to the resting-place where the little Clémentine de Dino had been carried. The priest placed the holy sacrament upon her head; this is said to bring children good luck. The little girl, who is very sweet and pretty, behaved herself delightfully. She was in the arms of her nurse, a pretty woman on her knees, in the midst of the people, the incense, the flowers and the beauties of nature, and the spectacle was delightful; it affected me to tears and I earnestly prayed from my grandmother's heart that the little girl might become a good and honourable Christian.
Rochecotte, June 1, 1842.– The Duc d'Orléans proposes to make a long tour of military inspection as a preliminary to the manœuvres. It is said that he will have an interview with the King of the Low Countries at Luxemburg. Duke Bernard of Saxe-Weimar is coming to Paris, and Duke Gustavus of Mecklenburg, the other uncle of the Duchesse d'Orléans, is already there. The Emperor of Brazil is to marry the last sister of the King of Naples.
The Ministry has experienced some checks in the discussion upon the budget; rumours are spreading that it may suffer a defeat during the elections.
Lord Cowley has invited the Princes to be present at a ball to be given on the 24th, Queen Victoria's birthday; they have declined. England thus appears not to be in the fashion. I am astonished that the Prince de Joinville and the Duc d'Aumale should choose this moment for a journey to England.
The Charivari contains two articles which are said to libel Madame de Lieven and M. Guizot; one is called "Two Pigeons," the other "A Drive in a Pony Chaise by Moonlight."
Queen Christina has ostensibly hired Malmaison as a summer residence. The truth seems to be that she has bought it through a third person.
The Prince de Polignac is at Paris for the marriage of his son with Mlle. de Crillon, and walks about the streets without arousing the smallest curiosity. The Legitimists who have a violent grudge against him, decline to notice him.
I hear from Nice that the Grand Duchess Stephanie, when her daughter was cured of the rosalie, felt some premonitory symptoms of the same malady which she neglected, with her habitual imprudence, and went for a sail against her doctor's advice. The vessel was delayed and she returned home very ill. On the 25th her condition was serious, and the doctor of Nice had called in other doctors from Marseilles for a consultation. I am sorry to hear it, for I feel deeply attached to the Grand Duchess.
I have good news from Pauline. My son-in-law paid a visit by himself to Madame Adélaïde and was warmly welcomed. He was thrown from his horse and returned home quite lame.64
Rochecotte, June 4, 1842.– Our young princes who proposed to travel to England have postponed their departure indefinitely. Under existing circumstances the journey would have been inopportune.
Rochecotte, June 7, 1842.– I have a very sad letter from Pauline. Her husband returned from Randan quite ill, either in consequence of the fall from his horse or owing to an attack of rheumatic fever. Whatever the cause may be, the results are serious. He is feverish and delirious, has attacks of nervous trouble, terrible pain and fainting fits. All this happened in the middle of the mountains and it was necessary to carry him home on a stretcher with his wife riding beside him. Such are the perils of life in the country. There is no doctor in the neighbourhood. I do not like this mode of life which is unsuited to Pauline's delicate health. Love and duty make everything beautiful in her eyes, but when the moment of trial comes, she feels herself very lonely in the midst of a wild country. Her husband was better when she despatched her letter. I am very anxious to hear later news.
Rochecotte, June 11, 1842.– I hear from Paris that Barante will certainly not return to St. Petersburg, because no Ambassador will be sent. The post will be filled by an ordinary Minister; I have not heard who will be chosen. Immediately after the elections there will be a short session of the Chambers for a fortnight during the month of August.
Rochecotte, June 14, 1842.– The newspapers say that M. Dupanloup has delivered a strikingly successful course of lectures on pulpit oratory at the Sarbonne. We shall also see the course suddenly terminated; it has given rise to much talk at Paris. M. Royer-Collard tells me that he thinks the Abbé Dupanloup was wrong to quote Voltaire in his lectures, though we may imagine how the quotation was made. He reminds me that under the Restoration the clergy sent Voltaire through eighteen editions by their attacks. At present he is hardly read, and therefore should not be quoted. The Abbé himself wrote to tell the Dean of the Faculty that to avoid any further outbreaks he would bring his course of lectures to an end. The Dean communicated the letter to the Minister of Education, who took the Abbé at his word without proposing any preventive measures to avoid the scandal which, as usual, was caused by a very small and very noisy minority.
Madame de Lieven tells me of the death of Matusiewicz, but gives no details. The poor Conference of London is rapidly disappearing: M. de Talleyrand, the Prince de Lieven, and now Matusiewicz. The Princess also tells me that poverty in England is extreme. The customs union of Germany has greatly damaged English commerce. Sir Robert Peel is extremely powerful, and seems likely to remain in office; every one else is overshadowed by him. Queen Victoria showed much courage and good sense in her last adventure. Her would-be assassin will not be executed, as the bullet has not been found.65
M. Guizot is, as usual, delighted with the session which has just come to an end, and with the prospect of the coming elections. Barante is pleasantly employed at London, and writes very nice letters. He was very kindly received at Windsor: he tells me that he did not find Lady Holland greatly changed, though he has not seen her for fifteen years; her rigid and imperious expression apparently remains unaltered. At the mention of her husband's name her eyes fill with tears, which does not suit her general expression; she shows such general want of amiability that her grief in this respect has become almost a subject of jest in society. Lady Clanricarde is very bitter against Russia. Lord Stuart has returned suffering from apoplexy, and his brain is said to have been slightly affected; it is not likely that he will return to St. Petersburg.
Regarding the general attitude of England to France, Barante writes as follows: "From a political point of view, I think there is a real desire to live upon good terms with us, and the manifestations of our Chambers and our newspapers have aroused regret and uneasiness. Every one knows that these were caused by ill-temper, and not by any desire for war; but if these demonstrations and opinions should continue to increase, it is impossible to foresee the result."
Rochecotte, June 16, 1842.– M. and Madame de La Rochejaquelein, my neighbours from Ussé,66 came to spend part of the day here yesterday. She has been very pretty and pleasant, and retains both of these qualities. Her husband is a kind of wild huntsman from the Vendée who has been wounded in the handsomest possible fashion; the scar crosses the whole of his face, but does not disfigure it.
Rochecotte, June 17, 1842.– When I came home after returning Madame de La Rochejaquelein's call, I found a letter from Pauline. After reading it I resolved to start at once to help the poor child. As it is a toilsome journey, difficult and almost dangerous through the mountains, and as I shall probably be obliged to travel on horseback for the last day, while the presence of a man may be useful to Pauline, I resolved to accept the offer of the good Vestier, who knows the country, and who is devoted to the Castellanes. They are also fond of him, and he will accompany me. He will sit on the box with Jacques, and his presence will be a great support. I shall go through without stopping; I am leaving all my servants here, and the house will go on as if I were not absent. It is a hard trial. God is great. Let us bow the head and adore, and remember that happiness is not to be found in this world.
Aubijou, June 22, 1842.– I left Rochecotte on the 18th in the morning. As I took no luggage in my carriage, had four horses on level ground, six in the mountains, and was preceded by a courier, I did not stop, and arrived here in forty-eight hours, which is wonderfully rapid travelling. I found my son-in-law terribly changed. The condition of his thigh, which was the primary cause of his illness, has improved, and gives no cause for alarm, but the nervous shock which it has produced causes me great anxiety. He is better, but by no means convalescent yet. I shall not return home until he reaches that stage, and as soon as he can be moved he will go to take the waters at Néris. Pauline is not ill, but she is growing very tired by reason of constant agitation and anxiety; she has shown great devotion. The presence of Vestier, who was a real support to me in these wild districts, greatly pleases my son-in-law. I thank Providence that he was so kind as to think of coming with me, for he is by far the most acceptable visitor to the invalid.
The roads here are frightful; the country for the last three leagues is not picturesque, but bare, dismal, and wild; the climate is disagreeable, and the temporary house in which we are encamped amid disorder is disgusting, especially for an invalid. It is a wooden house, swarming with fleas and mice; neither windows nor doors will shut, so that draughts have full play, and the noise is horrible. We are six leagues from a chemist's shop, and there is nothing to be had; I am horrified that they should think of building in such a country. Everything has to be made, even the level space of ground upon which to build the house. It will not be finished for years, but the Castellanes hope they may be able to live in a quarter of it next year!
Aubijou, June 23, 1842.– My son-in-law is much easier. The weather is abominable, and yesterday it thundered and rained in torrents the whole day; it is a horrible country, and I am not over-estimating its deficiencies, and am quite in despair at the idea of building a house here. It is quite possible to live here for nothing if people will live as the natives do, but any attempt to introduce civilisation is very expensive, and I fear my son-in-law will regret his attempt to take root here, for reasons both of health and money. No one could be more reasonable or gentle than Pauline, or show greater resignation and devotion; her conduct is admirable throughout this illness and the infinite number of troubles and vexations it involves; during all these she has shown both spirit and good sense, and is generally held in the highest esteem. All their servants are quite devoted to them. Here we are half enveloped in the clouds; the inhabitants are very uncivilised; in September they bake a six months' supply of bread; in October they shut themselves up with their cattle and intercommunication ceases; they then remain buried in the snow, which sometimes does not melt even in the month of May. Some parts of Auvergne are very picturesque, but not on this side; the mountains are too round and their summits too flat and bare; there is no fine expanse of water, and the whole outlook is most monotonous. The ruins of the old castle of Aubijou alone give a little character to the countryside; these have been wisely covered with climbing plants. My son-in-law is also planting on a large scale to improve the surroundings of the house and the view from the windows, but it will be a long time before his plantations grow; meanwhile the general aspect is dismal and I think the climate is very trying.
Aubijou, June 24, 1842.– My son-in-law had refused every proposal to move him, but after a very restless night he suddenly declared that he would stay here no longer. We immediately fell in with his desire for flight, ordered horses and packed our things, but we cannot start until to-morrow. Henri will travel lying down, and by very short stages. The doctors declare that to stay here would be the worst possible thing for him, and of this I am firmly convinced. It is a most fatal spot in which to be ill. He will rest for a few days at Clermont and then go to take the waters at Néris which have been prescribed, and are, I think, the best in the world for nervous rheumatism. I shall travel for some distance in company with them to see how he bears the journey, and will then go in advance of them. I shall turn aside at Néris to find them a good lodging, and then proceed to Rochecotte, where I shall be very glad to return, for I am dreadfully tired and I feel that if I were to stay longer here I should fall ill. My poor daughter is worn out; at any rate, both at Clermont and Néris she will be in a civilised country, within reach of help and away from the terrible loneliness in which she lives here.
To please my son-in-law I made a long and curious excursion yesterday in the valley overlooked by his new buildings. I found some fine pieces of water and splendid trees, but there is no means of approach and paths must be cut with an axe.
Longueplaine, near Tours, June 29, 1842. At the house of M. de la Besnardière.– We left Aubijou on the morning of the 25th. It was not an easy journey. My son-in-law was laid upon a mattress in their large travelling carriage, which is fortunately very roomy. Then came the question of leaving the mountains. Apart from the carriage of the Castellanes, which contained them with their doctor, their chambermaid, their child, and two lacqueys on the box, there was my carriage, with myself, a chambermaid, M. Vestier, and Jacques on the box; then came a little tilbury, drawn by Corsican horses, in which were the cook and an Auvergne jockey. On horseback was the estate agent, a keeper, and a negro, whom my son-in-law had brought back from the south and who is called Zéphir, blowing a horn. It was a strange spectacle, and resembled a scene from the Roman comique. The road, however, was by no means cheerful, with its rocks, its precipices, and its dangers, but by going gently and holding in the carriages, we came through without mishap. I will admit, to my shame, that I so far yielded to my fears as to leave my large carriage and take the cook's place in the tilbury, which proceeded with less danger, as it was lighter and narrower. Night came upon us before we had left the region of precipices, and my cowardice was then displayed in the most disgraceful manner and I wept. The Castellanes spent the night at Massiac. I left them there, feeling content with the effect of the open air upon Henri's nerves. I proceeded in advance, and reached Clermont on the morning of the 26th. I saw the doctor who had already been called in to Henri, and gave him an account of the invalid's progress. After announcing that he would arrive the same evening, I went a few leagues further from the town and visited Randan. I was very curious to see it, and I also knew that my visit would be a compliment to Madame Adélaïde. I admit that I was greatly undeceived: only three things justify the reputation of the place – the view, which is admirable, the fine old trees, and the kitchens and out-buildings, which, are, indeed, too handsome and entirely out of proportion to the rest of the establishment, which lacks distinction. A very poor avenue of poplar-trees, crossing a wretched village, leads to a paling of painted wood; through a gate one enters a kind of quincunx, at the end of which another turn leads to the narrow courtyards of the château. The entrance is very poor, though it would have been easy to cut a great avenue through the woods leading straight to the château. The château itself is built partly of brick, with painted roofs, and partly of white stone abutting upon the old part of the building, and forming a dreadful contrast of styles. The rooms are low, the decorations heavy and mean, the furniture without style or harmony, neither simple nor magnificent, and the apotheosis of bad taste. The hall and the ante-chamber are extremely narrow and inconvenient; there are no artistic objects, the sculptures are plaster and the paintings, which chiefly consist of family portraits, are bad copies. In the salon, which is called the family room because the whole of the present generation are there gathered, I was glad to see the portrait of Madame de Genlis. Madame Adélaïde's room is very small and, in my opinion, very ugly. The corridors on the first floor are dark, narrow, and inconvenient. The library is in the principal reception-room, where there is also a billiard-table; I do not think there were more than a thousand volumes. A wide terrace, which covers the kitchens, leads from the castle to the chapel. The terrace, which is well-adorned with flowers, is a fine point of view, but an iron trellis-work, which covers half of it, is so narrow and low that it is quite spoilt. The chapel is large, but in no particular style, and the decorations within are ugly. There are some very poor modern windows, a confessional-box, painted and coloured like a screen, holy water stoups of gilded cardboard, and, I repeat, a general want of dignity, gracefulness, and taste. The dining-room is the best preserved apartment; it is vaulted and painted with frescoes in extremely varied colours, and is too low. Some people praise it highly, but it is not to my taste.
I returned to Clermont at the moment when the Castellanes were arriving at the town and my son-in-law had borne the journey well. The doctor said he would be able to start for Néris at the end of twenty-four hours. I left them on the 27th, satisfied with the positive assurance that the doctor gave me, that there was no danger, though convalescence would be a slow and painful process. I went to Néris to engage rooms for them, a necessary precaution as there were many people in residence, and I had some trouble in finding a suitable house. The doctor at Néris whom I had known for a long time, is an excellent and careful man and I gave him full information concerning the case. I only stayed at Néris for dinner and to select rooms for the Castellanes, and after spending the night in my carriage I arrived here yesterday evening at the house of M. de la Besnardière. It has involved a detour of only two leagues and allowed me to pay a long-standing debt. They were considerably vexed that I had not paid them this visit earlier. The house is pretty, clean, convenient and almost fashionable, and full of little comforts which aroused my astonishment. It was the sight of Rochecotte which induced him to put this house in repair and for this purpose he employed Vestier, whose efforts were very successful. I shall lunch here, call at the Prefecture of Tours and reach my own house in time for dinner. I greatly need rest.
Rochecotte, June 30, 1842.– I stopped for an hour at Tours yesterday to call on the d'Entraigues. Every one was busy with the elections. I found all in good health except Alava, who had returned during my absence and was so changed during these few weeks that I think his end must be near.
Rochecotte, July 3, 1842.– The newspapers announce the death of M. de Sismondi. Notwithstanding his pedantry, he is a man to be regretted, a kind and very learned character.
The young people here are busy studying motets which are to be sung to-day in my chapel on the occasion of a solemn benediction which the priest will pronounce this evening at five o'clock. An association of girls has been started in this parish which has existed for a long time in neighbouring provinces, and will be called an association of the Daughters of the Virgin. It is a secular organisation and no renunciation of marriage is required. The members merely undertake to avoid bad company, to live honourable lives, to repeat the little office of the Virgin, to attend the sacraments regularly and to set a good example. At church and in processions they are dressed in white with blue sashes. I was asked to give them a banner and their blue sashes which I have done. They will be instituted to-day to the number of fifteen. As my chapel is dedicated to the Virgin and as a mark of gratitude for my gifts, they propose to go there in procession with their banner unfolded. For this occasion the Grand Vicars have allowed the performance of a choral benediction. This is a great event in the parish. Fortunately the weather is very fine. Pauline would have been very glad to be present and I regret her absence deeply.
Rochecotte, July 4, 1842.– Yesterday's ceremony was most edifying, bright and picturesque. Fanny, Alexandre and their music master sang extremely well. The girls were in white and blue and the chapel was decorated with flowers. There were at least five hundred people on the terrace to receive the blessing which was given from the altar which faces the chapel door opening on the terrace.
Rochecotte, July 7, 1842.– I have a letter from the Princesse de Lieven. She tells me that the Bishop of Orléans67 has been appointed Archbishop of Tours and she adds from M. Guizot that I shall find this prelate very satisfactory. A letter from Pauline tells me that her husband is rapidly recovering.
Rochecotte, July 10, 1842.– M. de la Besnardière came yesterday to spend a few hours here in the interval between the formation of committees and a vote of the electoral college of Tours. This department, which is generally so peaceful, has never been in such a ferment.
Rochecotte, July 11, 1842.– The great news of the district is that M. Crémieux, a Jewish lawyer, has been elected by a majority of thirty-five votes. M. Crémieux is a stranger to the district with which he has no connection. The result is really inexplicable unless it is due to his oratorical powers, for like a true lawyer he has talked so many hours on end that he filled the country people with admiration. If a similar result occurs at Loches, our department will be represented entirely by the Left. The Ministry, which will not admit its total neglect of the Prefect's requirements, will then blame M. d'Entraigues and perhaps we shall lose him, which would grieve me greatly. Moreover, these elections were thought likely to strengthen the Conservative reaction and if this expectation is falsified, the outlook will be extremely gloomy.
Rochecotte, July 12, 1842.– I have had a call from Dr. Orye and from M. de Quinemont. Both gave me a description of the disgraceful electoral scenes at Chinon, where M. Crémieux was carried shoulder high by the scum of the populace, who were unfortunately joined by Legitimists from the left bank of the Loire, in which district they are very numerous. The country electors were also largely influenced by the fact that they heard M. Crémieux speak for three hours on end without blowing his nose, spitting, or coughing, which they thought magnificent. I am very anxious to learn the general result of this reaction, which may have grave and serious consequences.
Rochecotte, July 14, 1842.– Alava came back here yesterday, and is full of election stories from Tours. Many disgraceful incidents took place. According to the newspapers, however, it seems that upon the general result of the elections the Ministry will have gained a few votes, and it is much that they have lost none. I must confess that I am very anxious to learn the final figures.
Rochecotte, July 15, 1842.– M. de Chalais had just arrived yesterday when I was expecting the Prefect, but instead of him a courier rode up whom he had sent to bring me the terrible news which has overwhelmed me, the news that the Duc d'Orléans was dead, in consequence of a fall from his carriage. I know no details except that he died at Neuilly on July 13, the day before yesterday, at half-past four in the afternoon. The accident took place the same day at midday at Sablonville. My thoughts are entirely occupied with this sad event, both as a matter of personal loss and as a public disaster. How will a long Regency be possible in a country so disturbed as France now is? Personally, I have to regret the friendship of which the young Prince had given me such honourable and flattering proofs. It is also a loss for my son Valençay. I really do not know whether the Prince's wife and mother will survive this terrible blow.
Rochecotte, July 16, 1842.– M. de Chalais went away yesterday at the end of the morning, and I accompanied him as far as Langeais. When I returned I found the house full of neighbours who had come to learn the details of this disastrous death. It seems to me more unfortunate and more likely to produce serious consequences at every moment. The details in the Journal des Débats formed the only complete and official account. I am also told that passers-by saw the Prince stand up in his carriage and look in the front of him to see if the horse which had bolted would meet any obstacle upon the road. There was nothing in the way and the same spectators saw the Prince calmly resume his seat, then lean out of the carriage and look behind him, as though to speak to the servant who was on the seat behind; he, however, had already jumped down, as the seat was empty. Probably the Prince thought that the servant had fallen and wishing with courageous kindness to help him, he then jumped from the carriage, for he did not make his spring until he had seen that his servant was not in his seat.
Rochecotte, July 18, 1842.– No one writes to me from Paris where I have but few correspondents at this moment; moreover, everybody is overwhelmed by consternation, but the newspapers are interesting and I search with painful eagerness for every detail touching our poor Prince and his unhappy family.
I am sorry to see that each newspaper, according to its political opinions, classifies the newly elected deputies upon different principles. The Journal des Débats announces a majority of seventy-three for the Ministry; others reduce the majority to three, and some even say that the Ministry is in a minority.
I also see that the press is already beginning to discuss the different forms of Regency, though the terms of the law in which the Government is preparing to deal with the question are not yet known. When the first shock has passed we shall see many sad results.
Rochecotte, July 19, 1842.– Yesterday I received a heartrending letter from Madame Adélaïde. It is very good of her to have written so clearly. I had sent her a letter but did not expect any reply. M. de Boismilon, the secretary of the Duc d'Orléans, has also written a letter containing many details. No one as yet can think or speak of anything but the death of this unhappy young Prince.
