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ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF A GREEN-HOUSE

In many respects, the construction of the Green*-house will be the same as the Hot-house, but might be made much more an ornamental object, and could be erected contiguous to the mansion-house, with large folding doors to open at pleasure, and be connected with the drawing-room or parlour. The extent may vary according to the collection to be cultivated.

It was formerly the practice to build these houses with glass only in front, and even to introduce between the windows strong piers of brick or stone: but this is now abolished, and has given way to a light and ornamental style, by which cheerfulness and the desired utility are better consulted. There should be conveniences in the back part of the house, that a free current of air may be obtained whenever desired, which is an essential point. Two or three dark windows will answer the purpose well, if made to open and shut at pleasure.

ON LAYING OUT A FLOWER-GARDEN

Soil, situation, and ground – Plan.– A soil of common good qualities, moderately light and mellow, will grow most of the hardy herbaceous flowers, and the evergreen and deciduous ornamental shrubs. The situation should not be so low as to be damp and wet, or liable to be inundated, neither so high as to be scorched or dried up by the sun. The surface should be level or moderately sloping, and if unequal, parts of it may be transposed, so as to make gentle inclinations. In regard to form, it may be of any shape, and must be often adapted to local circumstances; but if it is so circumscribed that the eye can at once embrace the whole, it is desirable that it should be of some regular figure.

Of Fences.– Where domestic buildings do not serve as a boundary, either paling or hedge-fence has to be resorted to: we would prefer the former on the north or north-west side, which is of great advantage as a screen from cutting winds. For hedge-fences and their kinds, see page 210. The exotic observed there is Thùja orientàlis, Chinese Arbor-vitæ. The internal fences for shade or shelter to particular compartments, or to afford a diversity of aspect, may be made of Sweetbriar, hardy China roses, Pyrus, red and white, with a few others of a similar nature, all of which must be attended to, to have them in neat order.

Style of dividing the Ground.– This may vary with the extent of the ground, and the object of the cultivator.

The principal designs may be delineated, but one to answer every view and situation, we pretend not to give. In the first place, carry a boundary walk all round the garden, on one or two sides of which it may be straight, the others winding. The intersecting walks should (almost imperceptibly) lead to a centre, but not to cross at right angles, or to have parallel lines, as if divided or laid down by a mathematical scale, which is too formal for the diversification of nature. All walks through these pleasure departments should be winding and enlivening, not continuing any length in one direction.¹¹ The continuous view of a straight walk is dull and monotonous. The divisions should be highest about the centre, that whatever is planted therein may have effect; and to make a Flower-garden fully interesting, and render it a source of natural information, where free scope might at all times be afforded to employ the leisure hours in mental improvement, there should be a good system of arrangement adopted.

The Linnean system is the most easily acquired. A small compartment laid out in beds might contain plants of all the twenty-four classes, and a few of all the hardy orders, which do not exceed one hundred. Or to have their natural characters more assimilated, the Jussieuean system could be carried into effect by laying down a grass plat, to any extent above one quarter of an acre, and cut therein small figures to contain the natural families, which of hardy plants we do not suppose would exceed one hundred and fifty. The difficulties of this arrangement are, that many of the characters are imperfectly known even to the most scientific. Mr. John Lindley has given additional light on the subject by his last publication. All the large divisions should be intersected by small allies, or paths, about one and a half or two feet wide. These may be at right angles, or parallel, for convenience and order, in making beds, &c. for the various Dutch roots and other flowers. Patches or plats of grass studded with shrubs, deciduous and evergreen, are indispensable, and perhaps one or two grass walks.

Of Walks.– These should have five or six inches of lime and brick rubbish, or broken stone in the bottom, covered with small pebbles, and firmly rolled with a heavy roller, over which lay two or three inches of fine gravel, giving the whole a complete rolling. Walks made on this method will stand well, and be always dry and firm. With regard to breadth, they must be made according to the extent of ground, and vary from three to thirty feet; from four to eight feet is generally adopted.

Plants described or mentioned in this Work

LIST OF HARDY SHRUBS

Those marked thus [*], require protection in winter, and those marked thus [+], shade in summer.

LIST OF ANNUALS THAT MAY BE SOWN ON A HOT-BED

HARDY ANNUALS

Alyssum, white or sweet.

Antírhìnum latifòlia.

medíum.

speciòsum.

versicolor.

Argeratum mexicanum.

odoratum.

Argemone, of sorts.

Aster, Chinese, of varieties.

Amaranthus, do. do.

Balsam, do. do.

Caccàlia Coccinea.

Centáurea Americàna.

Calceolaria of sorts.

Cláskia, pulchélla.

Celosia of sorts.

Calendùla Mary-Gold, of sorts.

Candytuft, of var.

Convólvulus, of var.

Coreopsis, of var.

Gypsophìla elegans.

Hollyhock, Chinese, of var.

Hawkweed, of var.

Ipomèa, do.

Larkspur, dwarf-rocket.

Larkspur, branching.

Neapolitan.

Love-Lies-Bleeding.

Lupins, of sorts.

Marvel of Peru.

Mignonette, sweet.

Marygold, of sorts.

Nasturtium, dwarf.

Nigella, of var.

Œnothera, do. do.

Pink Indian.

Peas, sweet, of sorts.

Persicària, red and white.

Poppy, double var.

Princess Feather.

Snap-Dragon.

Stock, Prussian, in var.

Sun-Flower, of var.

Sultan, sweet.

Silene, of sorts.

Venus' Looking-Glass.

Navel-Wort.

Xeranthehum, of var.

Zinnia, elegans.

of sorts.

[We have not been minute in the list of annuals, as they are generally known, and a judicious selection adapted to this country may be found in the catalogue of D. & C. Landreth, Philadelphia, or that of Smith & Hogg, New York.]

HARDY BIENNIALS

TABLE OF SOILS

The following compound of soils are adapted to the nature of the Plants contained in this Work.

The figures attached to the first species of each Genus refer to the Table of Soils, where the compost is in parts; and where any figures occur in the same Genus, the species following are of the same nature.

REMARKS ON THE NATURE OF SOILS USED IN THE ABOVE TABLE

Savanna soil– is of a dark colour, with a large portion of white sand incorporated with it, and is found frequently in New Jersey. A mixture of two-thirds black earth from the woods, and one-third of pure white sand, will be similar to it, and may be used as a substitute, but is not exactly of the same nature.

Loam– is of a light brown colour, and is that from old pastures or commons, which should lie one year, and be frequently turned before using. It ought not to be from a clay bottom.

Leaf mould– is that which is to be found on the surface of the ground in woods, and is the decomposed leaves. It may be termed nearly of first rate importance in vegetation.

Sand– is a substance that is generally known, and that which is found on the surface is decidedly the best. If it is from a pit, it must be spread out, and frequently turned, that it may assimilate with the atmosphere before using; – four months will be sufficient.

Manure– before using, must be decomposed to very fine particles. It will require two years, during which time it must be often turned, and the longer it lays it will be the finer and more congenial.