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171. Or,

Pulverize together two ounces of Gum Benjamin, half an ounce of Storax, a drachm of Aloes-wood, twenty grains of fine Civet, a little Sea Coal, and Loaf Sugar; boil the whole in a sufficient quantity of Rose-water, to the consistence of a stiff paste. If you are desirous of having your pastils higher flavoured, add twelve grains of Ambergrise just before you take the composition off the fire; and the ingredients being thoroughly mixed, form them into pastils.

172. Fragrant Pastils made use of by way of Fumigation

Take the purest Labdanum and Gum Benjamin, of each two ounces; Storax and dry Balsam of Peru, of each three quarters of an ounce; choice Myrrh, half a drachm; Gum Tacamahac, a quarter of an ounce; Olibanum, a drachm; Liquid Balsam of Peru, half an ounce; Ambergrise, a quarter of an ounce; Musk and Civet, of each a scruple; Essential Oil of Rhodium, thirty drops; Essential Oils of Orange-flowers, Lemons, and Bergamot, of each four drops; Gum Lacque, in fine powder, two ounces and a half; Cascarilla, Aloes-wood, Rose-wood, St. Lucia-wood, Yellow Sanders, and Cinnamon, all powdered, of each a drachm. With the assistance of a vapour-bath reduce them to a mass, which form into pastils in the usual way.

173. Pastils of Roses

Pulverize a pound of the Marc or Residuum left in the still after making Angelica Water; likewise a large handful of Roses; and with a sufficient quantity of Gum Tragacanth dissolved in Rose-water, beat them into a stiff paste, which is to be rolled out upon a marble with a rolling-pin, and cut into Lozenges, or formed into pastils. If you have a mind to ornament them, cover them with Leaf Gold or Silver.

PASTES

174. Paste of dried Almonds to cleanse the Skin

Beat any quantity you please, of Sweet and Bitter Almonds in a marble mortar, and while beating, pour on them a little Vinegar in a small stream to prevent their turning oily: then add two drachms of Storax in fine powder, two ounces of White Honey, and two Yolks of Eggs boiled hard; mix the whole into a paste.

175. Soft Almond Paste

Blanch in warm water any quantity of Bitter Almonds, leave them to grow dry, and then beat them in a marble mortar with a little Milk, to form them into a paste. To prevent their turning oily, afterwards add the Crumb of a light White Loaf soaked in Milk. Beat it with the Almonds till they are incorporated into an uniform mass; then put the whole into a kettle, with some fresh Milk, and let them simmer over a gentle fire; keeping the composition stirring, till it is boiled into a soft paste.

176. Paste for the Hands

Take Sweet Almonds, half a pound; White Wine Vinegar, Brandy, and Spring Water, of each two quarts; two ounces of Crumb of Bread, and the Yolks of two Eggs. Blanch and beat the Almonds, moistening them with the Vinegar; add the Crumb of Bread soaked in the Brandy, and mix it with the Almonds and Yolks of Egg, by repeated Trituration. Then pour in the Water, and simmer the whole over a slow fire, keeping the composition continually stirring, till it has acquired a proper consistence.

177. Or,

Take Bitter and Sweet Almonds blanched, of each two ounces; Pine-nuts, and the four Cold Seeds, of each an ounce; beat the whole together in a marble mortar with the Yolks of two Eggs, and the Crumb of a small Wheaten Loaf. Moisten the mass with White Wine Vinegar, put it into a deep pan, simmer it over a slow fire, and when the paste ceases sticking to the pan, it is sufficiently boiled.

178. Or,

Take blanched Almonds, a pound; Pine-nuts, four ounces; beat them together into a paste with the addition of two ounces of Loaf Sugar, an ounce of the finest Honey, the same quantity of Bean Flower, and half a gill of Brandy. This paste may be scented with the Essences of Cloves, Lemons, Bergamot, Jasmine, Rhodium, Orange Flowers, &c. or with a few grains of Musk, Civet, or a few drops of Essence of Ambergrise, for persons who have no aversion to those perfumes.

179. Or,

Beat half a pound of blanched Almonds, with half an ounce of Yellow Sanders, half an ounce of Florentine Orrice, and an ounce of Calamus Aromaticus, in fine powder; pour on them gradually an ounce of Rose-water, and then add half a Pippin sliced small, a quarter of a pound of stale Crumb of White Bread sifted fine, and knead the whole into a paste with two ounces of Gum Tragacanth dissolved in Rose-water.

180. Or,

Beat some peeled apples (having first taken out the Cores) in a marble mortar, with Rose-water, and White Wine, of each equal parts. Add some Crumb of Bread, blanched Almonds, and a little White Soap; and simmer the whole over a slow fire till it acquires a proper consistence.

181. Or,

Infuse some blanched Almonds, two or three hours, in Goat's or Cow's Milk, and beat them into a paste. Strain the infusion through a linen cloth with a strong pressure, and add to the strained Liquor half a pound of the Crumb of White Bread, a quarter of a pound of Borax, and as much Burnt Roch Alum. Simmer the whole together, and when almost boiled enough, add an ounce of Spermaceti. Stir the composition well with a spatula to prevent it from burning to the bottom of the pan; and let it simmer but very gently.

182. Or,

Dry, before the fire, half a pound of Bitter Almonds blanched, then beat them in a marble mortar as fine as possible, and add a little boiled Milk to prevent the Almonds from turning oily. Beat in the same manner the Crumb of two French Bricks, with four Yolks of Eggs boiled hard, and with the addition of some fresh Milk knead them into a paste, which incorporate with that of the Almonds.

POMATUMS

183. Cold Cream, or Pomatum for the Complexion

Take White Wax and Spermaceti, of each a drachm; Oil of Sweet Almonds, two ounces; Spring Water, an ounce and a half; melt the Wax and Spermaceti together in the Oil of Almonds, in a glazed earthen pipkin, over hot ashes, or in a vapour-bath; pour the solution into a marble mortar, and stir it about with a wooden pestle, till it grow cold, and seem quite smooth; then mix the Water gradually, and keep stirring, till the whole is incorporated. This pomatum becomes extremely white and light by the agitation, and very much resembles cream, from its similitude to which it has obtained its name.

This pomatum is an excellent cosmetic, and renders the skin supple and smooth. Some add a little Balm of Gilead to heighten its virtue; and it is sometimes scented, by using Rose-water or Orange-flower Water in the preparation, instead of Spring-water, or with a few drops of any Essence, as fancy directs. It is also very good to prevent marks in the face from the Small-pox; in which last case, a little powder of Saffron, or some desiccative powder, such as Flowers of Zinc or French Chalk, is usually added. Keep it for use in a large gallypot tied over with a bladder.

184. Cucumber Pomatum

Take Hog's Lard, a pound; ripe Melons, and Cucumbers, of each three pounds, Verjuice, half a pint; two pippins pared, and a pint of Cow's Milk. Slice the Melons, Cucumbers, and Apples, having first pared them; bruise them in the Verjuice, and, together with the Milk and Hog's Lard, put them into an alembic. Let them infuse in a vapour-bath eight or ten hours; then squeeze out the Liquor through a straining cloth while the mixture is hot, and expose it to the cold air, or set it in a cool place to congeal. Afterwards pour off the watery part that subsides, and wash it in several Waters, till the last remains perfectly clear. Melt the pomatum again in a vapour-bath several times, to separate from it all its humid particles, and every extraneous substance; otherwise it will soon grow rancid. Keep it for use in a gallypot tied over with a bladder.

185. Or,

A more simple Cucumber Pomatum may be made by simmering together Hog's Lard and pared Cucumbers cut in thin slices. With respect to the rest of the process, follow the method laid down for preparing Lip-salve; and keep this pomatum in the same manner as the former.

Both these pomatums are good Cosmetics; they soften the skin, and preserve it cool and smooth.

186. Lavender Pomatum

Take two pounds and a half of Hog's Lard, ten pounds of Lavender Flowers, and a quarter of a pound of Virgin's Wax; put two pounds of picked Lavender Flowers into a proper vessel with the Hog's Lard, and knead them with your hands into as uniform a paste as possible. Put this mixture into a pewter, tin, or stone pot, and cork it tight; place the vessel in a vapour-bath, and let it stand six hours; at the expiration of which time, strain the mixture through a coarse linen cloth, with the assistance of a press. Throw away the Lavender Flowers as useless, pour the melted Lard back into the same pot, and add four pounds of fresh Lavender Flowers. Stir the Lard and Flowers together while the Lard is in a liquid state, in order to mix them thoroughly; and repeat the former process. Continue to act in this manner till the whole quantity of Lavender Flowers is used. Then set in a cool place the pomatum separated from the Lavender Flowers, that it may congeal; pour off the brown aqueous juice extracted from them; and wash the Pomatum in several waters, stirring it with a wooden spatula, to separate any remaining watery particles, till the last water remains perfectly colourless. Then melt the Pomatum in a vapour-bath, and keep it in that state about an hour, in a vessel well corked; leaving it afterwards to congeal. Repeat this last operation till the aqueous particles are entirely extracted when the Wax must be added, and the Pomatum having been again melted, in a vapour-bath, in a vessel closely corked, be suffered to congeal as before. When properly prepared, fill it into gallypots, and tye the mouths over with wet bladders, to prevent the air from penetrating.

This Pomatum is extremely fragrant, but is used only for dressing the hair.

In the same manner are prepared, Orange-flower Pomatum, Jasmine Pomatum, and all Pomatums made of odoriferous flowers. Common Pomatum scented with the essences of any such flowers, may be used as a good succedaneum.

187. LIP-SALVES

Take three ounces of Oil of Almonds, three quarters of an ounce of Spermaceti, and a quarter of an ounce of Virgin's Wax; melt them together over a slow fire, mixing with them a little of the powder of Alkanet Root. Keep stirring till cold, and then add a few drops of Oil of Rhodium.

188. Or,

Take prepared Tutty and Oil of Eggs, of each equal parts; mix, and apply them to the lips, after washing the latter with Barley or Plantain Water.

189. Or,

Place over a chafing-dish of coals, in a glazed earthen pan, a quarter of a pound of the best fresh Butter, and an ounce of Virgin's Wax; melt them together; when thoroughly melted, throw in the Stones of half a bunch of ripe Black Grapes, with some Alkanet Roots a little bruised. Simmer these ingredient together for a quarter of an hour; afterwards strain the mixture through a fine linen cloth; and pour into your pomatum, which must be again set on the fire, a spoonful of Orange-flower Water. Having let them simmer together a little while, take the pan off the fire, and keep the pomatum stirring till it become quite cold. It will keep a long while, and is a perfect cure for chapped lips.

190. A Yellow Lip-Salve

Take Yellow Bee's Wax, two ounces and a half; Oil of Sweet Almonds, a quarter of a pint; melt the Wax in the Oil, and let the mixture stand till it become cold, when it acquires a pretty stiff consistence. Scrape it into a marble mortar, and rub it with a wooden pestle, to render it perfectly smooth. Keep it for use in a gallypot, closely covered.

It is emollient and lenient; of course good for chaps in the lips, hands, or nipples; and preserves the skin soft and smooth.

A Crust of Bread applied hot, is an efficacious remedy for pimples that rise on the lips, in consequence of having drank out of a glass after an uncleanly person.

191. A Scarlet Lip-Salve

Take Hog's Lard washed in Rose-water, half a pound; Red Roses and Damask Roses bruised, a quarter of a pound; knead them together and let them lie in that state two days. Then melt the Hog's Lard, and strain it from the Roses. Add a fresh quantity of the latter, knead them in the Hog's Lard, and let them lie together two days as before; then gently simmer the mixture in a vapour-bath. Press out the Lard, and keep it for use in the same manner as other Lip-salves.

192. Or,

Take an ounce of Oil of Sweet Almonds cold drawn, a drachm of fresh Mutton Suet, and a little bruised Alkanet Root; simmer the whole together. Instead of Oil of Sweet Almonds you may use Oil of Jasmine, or the Oil of any other Flower, if you choose the Lip-salve should have a fragrant scent.

193. Or,

Take Oil of Violets, and the expressed Juice of Mallows, of each an ounce and a half; Goose Grease and Veal Marrow, of each a quarter of an ounce; Gum Tragacanth, a drachm and a half; melt the whole over a gentle fire.

194. Or,

Take half a pound of fresh Butter, a quarter of a pound of Bee's Wax, four or five ounces of cleansed Black Grapes, and about an ounce of bruised Alkanet Root; simmer them together over a slow fire till the Wax is wholly dissolved, and the mixture become of a bright red colour; then strain, and set it by for use.

195. Or,

Take Deer or Goat's Suet, six ounces; Hog's Lard, four ounces: cut them into little bits, and wash them five or six different times in White Wine; then by hard pressure squeeze out every drop of the Wine. Melt the fats in a new-glazed earthen pan with half an ounce of Orrice Roots cut in thin slices, a grated Nutmeg, two or three Pippins pared and sliced thin, a pint of Rose-water, an ounce of Bee's Wax, and half an ounce of bruised Cloves. Simmer the whole over a slow fire about half an hour; then strain through a linen cloth into a pan half full of clean Water. Let the pomatum remain in the pan till cold, then wash it well, and beat it in a marble mortar with two ounces of White Wax, till they be thoroughly incorporated. Apply a little to the lips every night going to rest; and rub it upon the hands every night and morning.

196. White Pomatum

Take an ounce of Florentine Orrice-root, half an ounce of Calamus Aromaticus, and as much Gum Benjamin, a quarter of an ounce of Rose-wood, and a quarter of an ounce of Cloves. Bruise the whole into a gross powder, tie it up in a piece of linen, and simmer it in a vapour-bath, with two pounds and a half of Hog's Lard well washed; add a couple of Pippins pared and cut into small bits, four ounces of Rose-water, and two ounces of Orange-flower Water. After the ingredients have simmered together a little while, strain off the Liquor gently, and let the Pomatum stand till cold; then put it by for use in the same manner as other pomatums.

197. Red Pomatum

Is made by adding to the above more or less Alkanet Root bruised, according to the depth of colour you would wish to impart. Simmer the Pomatum and Alkanet together, stirring the mixture with a wooden spatula, till the Pomatum is sufficiently tinged; then strain it from the Roots, and set it by for use.

198. A Pomatum to remove Redness, or Pimples in the Face

Steep in clear Water a pound of a Boar's Cheek till it becomes tolerably white, drain it quite dry, and put it into a new-glazed earthen pan with two or three pared Pippins quartered, an ounce and a half of the four Cold Seeds bruised, and a slice of Veal about the size of the palm of one's hand. Boil the whole together in a vapour-bath for four hours, then with a strong cloth squeeze out your pomatum into an earthen dish placed upon hot ashes; adding to it an ounce of White Wax, and an ounce of Oil of Sweet Almonds. Stir the pomatum well with a spatula till it become cold.

199. A Pomatum for Wrinkles

Take Juice of White Lily Roots and fine Honey, of each two ounces; melted White Wax, an ounce; incorporate the whole together, and make a pomatum. It should be applied every night, and not be wiped off till the next morning.

200. Another for the same Intention

Take six new-laid Eggs, boil them hard, take out the Yolks, and fill the cavities with Myrrh, and powdered Sugar Candy, of each equal parts. Join the Whites together neatly, and set them on a plate before the fire; mixing the Liquor that exsudes from them with an ounce of Hog's Lard. This pomatum must be applied in the morning, and be suffered to dry upon the skin, which is afterwards to be wiped with a clean fine napkin.

201. Or,

Take half an ounce of Sallad Oil, an ounce of Oil of Tartar, half an ounce of Mucilage of Quince Seeds, three quarters of an ounce of Ceruss, thirty grains of Borax, and the same quantity of Sal Gem. Stir the whole together for some time in a little earthen dish, with a wooden spatula, and apply it in the same manner as the former composition.

202. Pomatum for a red or pimpled Face

Take two pared Apples, Celery, and Fennel, of each a handful; and Barley Meal, a quarter of an ounce. Simmer the whole together a quarter of an hour in a gill of Rose-water; then add an ounce of fine Barley Meal, the Whites of four new-laid Eggs, and an ounce of Deer's Suet. Strain through a canvas bag into a dish that contains a little Rose-water; wash the pomatum well in the Rose-water, and afterwards beat it in a mortar perfectly smooth. This pomatum is to be applied frequently through the day, to remove the redness of the face, pimples, and even freckles; but to answer the last mentioned purpose, it must be continued till they are entirely effaced. To prevent their return, the person must avoid the intense heat of the sun, and hot drying winds for some time.

203. A Pomatum for the Skin

Take Oil of White Poppy Seeds, and of the four Cold Seeds, of each a gill; Spermaceti, three quarters of an ounce; White Wax, an ounce: mix them into a pomatum according to the rules of art.

A great quantity of a substance resembling Butter is extracted from the Cocoa Tree, which is excellent to mollify and nourish the skin, and has long been used for this purpose amongst the Spanish Creolian women.

204. Pomatum to make the Hair grow in a bald Part, and thicken the Hair

Take Hen's Fat, Oil of Hempseed, and Honey, of each a quarter of a pound; melt them together in an earthen pipkin, and keep the mixture stirring with a wooden spatula, till cold. This pomatum, to obtain the desired effect, must be rubbed on the part eight days successively.

205. Another Pomatum for the Hair

Cut into small pieces a sufficient quantity of Hog's Cheek, steep it eight or ten days in clean Water, which be careful to change three times a day, and every time the Water is changed, stir it well with a spatula to make the flesh white. Drain the flesh dry, and putting it into a new earthen pipkin, with a pint of Rose-water, and a Lemon stuck with Cloves, simmer them over the fire till the skum looks reddish. Skim this off, and removing the pipkin from the fire, strain the Liquor. When it has cooled, take off the fat; beat it well with cold Water, which change two or three times as occasion may require; the last time using Rose-water instead of common Water. Drain the Pomatum dry, and scent it with Violets, Tuberoses, Orange Flowers, Jasmine, Jonquils a la Reine, &c. in the following manner.

206. Manner of Scenting Pomatums for the Hair

Spread your Pomatum about an inch thick upon several dishes or plates, strewing the flowers you make choice of on one dish, and covering them with another. Change the Flowers for fresh ones every twelve hours, and continue to pursue this method for ten or twelve days; mixing the pomatum well, and spreading it out every time that fresh Flowers are added. It will soon acquire a fragrant scent, and may be used in what manner you think proper. It is good for almost every cosmetic purpose, but more particularly for the hair, which it nourishes, strengthens, preserves, and thickens.

207. Orange-Flower Pomatum

Take two pounds and a half of Hog's Lard, and three pounds of Orange Flowers; mix them together in a marble mortar; then put the mixture into an earthen vessel with some Water, and place it in a vapour-bath, where let it stand till the Lard is melted, and floats above the Flowers. When it has stood till cold, pour away the Water, and simmer in the usual manner, with three pounds of fresh Orange Flowers. Repeat the same operation twice more with two pounds of Orange Flowers each time; and the last time, while the mixture stands in infusion, add a gill of Orange-flower Water. Strain through a hair sieve held over an earthen dish; drain off the Water thoroughly when cold, and keep the Pomatum in a dry place, in a gallypot close tied over with a bladder.

In the same manner are prepared Jasmine, Jonquil, Tuberose, Lavender Pomatums, and all pomatums scented with Flowers.