Wie es Japan heute geht: Wie es leidet. Wie es lebt. Wie es duftet. Wie es stinkt. Wie es schmeckt. Wie es schuftet. Ein Augenzeugen-Bericht.

Zwei Deutsche besuchen drei Monate nach dem größten anzunehmenden Unfall ein Land zwischen Trauer und Atomangst, zwischen Aufbau-Elan und Zukunftssorgen. Was sieht der Besucher, was erzählen die Bewohner? Wie passt das Bild, das deutsche Medien vermitteln, zur Realität im Tsunami-Gebiet? Was sind heute Japans wirkliche Probleme?

Mit zahlreichen exklusiven Fotos. Reportage mit Reise-Tagebuch.

Auszug:

Radioaktivität. Sie ist unsichtbar. Sie ist gefährlich: beschädigt das Erbgut, löst Mutationen aus und Krebs. Strahlung ist überall. Vor allem in den Köpfen. Ihretwegen ist das Flugzeug, das auf den Tag drei Monate nach dem Erdbeben der Stärke 9,0 nachmittags halb vier in Tokio landet, von mir abgesehen nur mit Japanern besetzt. Ihretwegen, könnte man sagen, leuchtet abends nur jede zweite Straßenlampe des Großstadt-Molochs.

Sie macht Schweißausbrüche, denn die Klimaanlagen in S- und U-Bahnen und öffentlichen Gebäuden, in der Schwüle der Regenzeit sonst auf arktisches Niveau eingestellt, halten nun eine Maximaltemperatur von 28 Grad. Noch immer sind nach dem Atomunfall in Fukushima 35 von 54 Reaktoren in ganz Japan abgestellt (mit der Abschaltung der 19 restlichen rechnet man bis Mitte nächsten Jahres). Tepco, der für die havarierte Anlage verantwortliche Betreiber, informiert auf digitalen Werbetafeln im Nahverkehr, wieviel Prozent des Strombedarfs die Firma gerade stillen kann. Die Zahlen schwanken zwischen 73 und 78 Prozent. Und der heiße Sommer kommt erst noch…

… Bleich wird er, wenn er davon erzählt, wie er das Erdbeben am 11. März in der relativ nah zum Epizentrum gelegenen Stadt erlebte. «Ich war gerade beim Umziehen und lief in Unterhosen auf die Straße», berichtet er, \"die Hochhäuser um mich herum schwankten wie Bambuspflanzen hin und her. Es wollte gar kein Ende nehmen.

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