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CHAPTER XXVII

Return Voyage from New York to Liverpool

To my great and sincere regret, the hour at length arrived when I was constrained to leave this happy and prosperous land, in which I had seen and learned so much, and in which much more still remained to be seen and learned: sed fata trahunt hominem!

On the 16th of June, at ten, A. M., I proceeded to Whitehall, the southernmost point of the battery, accompanied by Mr. Zimmermann, Mr. George Beiden, and Mr. Armstrong, the American Consul at Port-au-Prince. Close alongside the wharf, the steam-boat Nautilus, which plies between New York and Staten Island, lay ready to take passengers on board the Pacific, one of the Liverpool and New York packets, on board of which I had taken passage for Europe. The Pacific had on the preceding day, sailed down to the quarantine ground. The gentlemen above named accompanied me to the vessel. We were scarcely on board the steam-boat before she departed on her trip. She was tolerably crowded, inasmuch as she not only carried the Pacific’s passengers, but likewise their friends, who accompanied them, and the passengers for Staten Island. The rain fell in torrents, and the passage was rather unpleasant.

After stopping a few moments at Staten Island to land some passengers, we reached the Pacific in an hour. The wind being contrary, the ship could not put to sea. Not far from us lay the packet ship Edward Quesnell, which had left New York the day previous, and likewise, owing to head winds, could not proceed on her voyage. This ship belongs to the Havre-de-Grace line, trading between that port and New York. Our friends and acquaintances, who had come to bid us farewell, after partaking of a luncheon, returned in the Nautilus to the city. Now I once again was compelled to arm myself with patience! I recalled the time, when I was obliged to remain fourteen long days on board the Pallas, in the Road of Goeree, and I now consoled myself with a more pleasing situation. At that time I had just torn myself from the dearest objects of my heart; I contemplated a tedious stay in England, a dangerous voyage, in a word, to encounter a host of difficulties, and moreover found myself, in an inclement season of the year on board a ship, which was to bring me to a new world. These difficulties were now overcome; the voyage had been accomplished, and I was conscious that the object of my free choice, had been truly fulfilled to the best of my endeavours. According to a close calculation, I found that from my landing in Boston, to the time of my re-embarkation for Europe, I had travelled over a distance of seven thousand one hundred and thirty-five miles! How happy was I on board the Pacific! The greatest tranquillity, order and discipline, the utmost comfort in respect to quarters; a sedulous attendance, profuse and palatable meals, seasoned with the best of wines, graced our splendid board.

The first day was employed by the passengers, about twenty in number, in making themselves at home; I passed the afternoon and evening in reading and writing. The rain abated towards night, but the wind remained unchanged. Among the passengers I observed a Dr. Garret, a surgeon attached to the seventieth English regiment of the line, whose acquaintance I had made in Montreal, during the summer previous, also two Catholic clergymen of that city, Abbés Roux and Richards, a Mr. Wilkins, and Mr. Adair, an Irishman, and also several gentlemen from Jamaica, a Swiss merchant named Hoffel, and a young Hamburger, called Drusina, who had lately returned from Mexico, where he was partner in an English commercial house, a very genteel young man, and lastly a Dr. Cabell of Richmond, in Virginia, with his wife, a sister of Mrs. General Scott, and with their charming friend, Miss Caroline Marx, also a resident of Richmond.

Though we had no rain on the 17th of June, still the wind continued unfavourable; the Edward Quesnell had gone farther out to sea, and the Pacific did the same. The anchor was weighed, we spread our sails, and coasted for some miles along the shore to the Sandy Hook light-house, located on a point of land belonging to the state of New Jersey; here we again joined the Edward Quesnell and cast anchor close to her. While sailing along the coast, I was visited by my old acquaintance, sea-sickness, which however did not last long. While attacked by this sickness, I gratefully recalled to mind the goodness of Providence, in having preserved me from all disease during my long journey through the American continent! In England I had several attacks of rheumatism in the left arm and shoulder; but these pains disappeared during my voyage to Boston. Owing to the unhealthiness of the climate in the neighbourhood of Lake Ontario and the river St. Lawrence, I had a breaking out in the face, which ultimately increased to a scab on the chin, and of which I did not get rid for several months. To this I have to add the unfortunate injury from the carriage at Greenbush, which caused violent pains in my chest. All these left me the moment I reached the genial climate of the southern states, and during my stay in New Orleans I did not feel the least inconvenience, and when, during the journey, I experienced now and then a slight indisposition, it was doubtless to be attributed solely to the water that I was compelled to drink; it was but short in its duration, and, upon the whole, during my travels, I enjoyed perfect health.

The country adjacent to the spot where our ship lay, opposite the quarantine hospital at Staten Island, until this morning, is uncommonly beautiful. On leaving this station, we passed through the Narrows, beheld on our right Fort Richmond on Staten Island, to our left Fort La Fayette, and in the back ground, on a hill of Long Island, Fort Hamilton, in the erection of which they were busily engaged. Then we left the charming high coast of Staten Island and came in sight of the bleak low lands of Sandy Hook, with Long Island to the left, and the ocean before us. The Sandy Hook light-house is a high white tower, surrounded by small underwood; to the south of it, and tolerably distant from each other, are two small towers, likewise furnished with lanterns, whose lights are, however, not to be seen at so great a distance at sea as that of the large one. They serve as landmarks for mariners.

As we lay so near the Edward Quesnell, I went towards evening in a boat on board that vessel, in order to see how the passengers, and particularly the worthy Mr. Hottinguer, whom I have heretofore mentioned, were situated. Although this ship is well constructed and provided with state-rooms, still it is by no means so elegant and comfortable as the Pacific, nor is it so large. She had thirty-five cabin passengers, with a number of children; they were greatly straightened for room. Besides Mr. Hottinguer, I met several acquaintances; Colonel de Quartel,⁷² Baron Lederer,⁷³ with his two sons, whom he intended to place at a school in Germany; Major Chotard,⁷⁴ with his lady and four children, and also a young Italian scene-painter, from New Orleans, called Fogliardi, who married there a very old but extremely rich wife, and was on his way to France and Italy, to escape with his better half from the quizzical jokes of the wicked wags of New Orleans. Although the deck of the Edward Quesnell was very narrow, Mr. Hottinguer had received a present of an elegant saddle-horse from his friends at New York, which, to please those friends, he was forced to take with him; therefore there was a stable erected for it on the deck, which took up a great space, and caused much inconvenience. Mr. Hottinguer and Colonel de Quartel accompanied me back to the Pacific, and remained some time with me. It was a charming moonlight evening; the wind, however, still continued unfavourable.

On the 18th of June, just one year had elapsed since I departed in the Pallas from Falmouth. The whole of this day we had dull weather; the wind remained unfavourable, and the vessel rode at anchor. Among our fellow travellers there were several very agreeable individuals. The English military surgeon was a very sprightly man, who perfectly understood how to cheer up the spirits of the ladies. Mr. Wilkins, a very elegant young man of good education, had been previously introduced to me by Governor Clinton in New York. One of the clergymen, the Abbé Leroux, an elderly Frenchman, we found tolerably dull. With regard to the other, the Abbé Richards, I heard it stated, that he had been originally a Protestant minister in Virginia, and had removed to Montreal, to endeavour to make proselytes in the seminary of that place; but in his controversies he became so won over to the Catholic faith, that he was not only converted, but likewise took the orders of Catholic priesthood. One of our boats went ashore, and the steward brought back some fresh provisions, among others tolerably large clams, which, when roasted or stewed in a rich sauce, resemble the flavour of the lobster, as likewise a species of large crab, termed horse-shoe, which resembles the Molucca crab, having a long pointed spine instead of a tail. The form of the shell of this crab resembles a horse-shoe; seen from the under part it is all alive; they have ten nippers, with which they seize their prey, and which answer likewise for feet. In the afternoon we received a visit from Mr. Hottinguer, Colonel de Quartel, Baron Lederer, and Mr. Fogliardi. I escorted those gentlemen back to the Edward Quesnell. The sea running rather high, we were splashed by the salt water. Our trip seen from the ship must have had a dangerous aspect, for it was really affecting to behold with what tenderness Madam Fogliardi caressed her young husband, as he once more happily stood on the deck. I also became acquainted on board the Edward Quesnell with a Portuguese, Dr. Constancio, and his wife. During the ephemeral government of the Cortes in his native land, this individual was Portuguese ambassador near the government of the United States, and had subsequently, during the existence of the counter-revolution, lost his office. After remaining half an hour on board the Edward Quesnell, Mr. Croker took me back in his long-boat to the Pacific. We made the transition in less than four minutes. This Mr. Croker is a Quaker, and an experienced seaman; he had crossed the ocean one hundred and thirty-four times.

During the next three days the wind remained unfavourable. Several vessels from Liverpool, were making port; one of them had only been twenty-six days on her voyage. We were likewise, approached by several small vessels bound to different foreign countries, and like us, contending with a contrary wind. Towards evening I received a note from Messrs. Leroy, Bayard & Co. in New York, acquainting me with the failure of the firm of Fries & Co. in Vienna. As I had formerly been very hospitably received by that house, and was personally acquainted with all the individuals belonging to it, their misfortunes deeply afflicted me.

On the 22d, the rain abated and the weather began to clear up, but the wind continued steadily blowing from the east, which kept us in the same spot. Nothing interrupted the uniformity of our mode of living, which we beguiled by reading the newspapers that we received from the city, and looking at vessels coming from England, running into port before the wind. One of these vessels had one hundred and forty Irish emigrants on board. The James Cropper, a ship belonging to the line, had sailed on the 16th ultimo from Liverpool. Two days previous, the Silas Richards, another of the same line, had also arrived, which left Liverpool on the 24th ult. In one of the New York papers, we found a letter from the master of this vessel, in which he stated, that he had seen the celebrated sea serpent, not far from the American coast.

During the 23d of June, we still remained becalmed; the weather was cloudy and rainy throughout the whole day. Mr. Hottinguer, who likewise began to feel the effects of ennui on board his vessel, paid me a visit, took a luncheon and dined with us, and passed the greater part of the day in our company. When in the evening he returned to the Edward Quesnell, I accompanied him, and made a short visit to my half despairing acquaintances. One of our boats had gone towards land upon a fishing excursion, and came back loaded with a rich collection of various kinds of fish: flounders, bluefish, and herrings in abundance; clams, crabs beautifully coloured with blue and red; large sea-shells of extraordinary form, several bass and a small fish, with a brown back, resembling a toad, with a thick white belly, which it fills with air to such a degree, that the whole fish has the appearance of a ball, three-fourths of it are white, and one-fourth forming the back, brown. When this fish is caught and dies, the air gradually escapes from it, and it ultimately assumes the form of an empty bladder.

At last, on the 24th, the weather became somewhat clear and the wind came round favourably for us. At noon the anchor was weighed and we spread our sails. A number of vessels, desirous to avail themselves of the fair wind, were coming down from New York and the quarantine ground. The line packet, John Wells, next in rotation to the Pacific, made likewise its appearance from port, which was no doubt the principal cause of our hastily hoisting sail. I counted more than fifty vessels of all sizes, putting to sea. The wind in the beginning was so slight, that we could only move along with the ebb tide. We doubled the low cape of Sandy Hook; in the back ground we saw the light-house, surrounded by underwood, and in front of it, like two outposts, the two low stony beacons. Not far from the light-house, stands a half ruined block-house, in which during the last war a military post was stationed; it now answers as a landmark for mariners. In the rear of the high light-house, at a distance of several miles, towers the highland of Navesink, presenting a charming prospect. To the south one discovers the long and low coast of New Jersey, and perceives the sea-baths of Long Branch, which during the heat of summer are numerously visited by the fashionables of New York and Philadelphia. The heights of Staten Island with Fort Richmond are seen, to the right of them are the Narrows, and farther to the right the southernmost high coast of Long Island, gradually fading from the view. In the centre of the Narrows, Fort La Fayette stretches out, like a solitary point. As we put farther out to sea, we saw several buoys, which designated the shallows, through the midst of which the skilful pilot brought us safely. Two small vessels were employed in fishing up lost anchors. The pilot remarked, that the anchors of the French fleet under Admiral De Grasse, had remained here ever since the time of the American revolutionary war. This fleet owing to the unskilfullness of two pilots, was compelled to part with its anchors. When an enemy’s fleet blockades New York, the shipping make to Sandy Hook bay, properly called Raritan bay, for shelter against storms, and are thus enabled to blockade the Narrows very closely. Should a fleet wish to force the passage, it can, as I remarked last fall, neither be prevented from so doing by Fort Richmond, nor Fort La Fayette. In a conversation which I had with General Bernard, he stated, that he would prevent a close blockade by means of two strong casemated forts, which he would erect on the before-mentioned shallows, whereby the enemy would be perfectly excluded from Raritan bay. This project could not, however, be realised at that time, because the grant of funds by congress were to be appropriated to the completion of the works on the fortress already commenced.

In the afternoon, the pilot at length left us, and we found ourselves on the open sea. Although the wind blew very gently, still the sea, owing to the late storm, ran very high. The ship rolled dreadfully and many of our passengers were sea-sick. I also felt somewhat unwell, but my complaint did not produce vomiting.

During the 25th of June the wind not being favourable, we made but little progress. The weather was rather unpleasant, and the whole day clouded with a thick fog, almost as dense as that through which we made our way during last year on the banks of Newfoundland. Towards the afternoon the weather brightened up a little. We spoke two ships, the Camillus, of New York, from Greenock, in Scotland, with Scotch emigrants, bound to New York, and a small brig from New Brunswick, in ballast, to New York. A shark followed our ship for some time. It gave me particular pleasure to perceive what tranquillity reigned on board, that no swearing was to be heard, and that every thing tended to the comfort of the passengers.

During the night rain fell, and on the 26th of June we had likewise several showers. We perceived the Edward Quesnell astern of us, and set several additional sails that she might not reach us. The wind was not very favourable, and blowing from the south-east, it drove us into the neighbourhood of the perilous George’s bank, which we so carefully avoided last year. Therefore we changed our course and stood to the south. It became imperiously necessary this year to keep aloof from the bank of Newfoundland, because we had been assured that a great quantity of detached ice had come down from the north, and setting on the bank in the shape of bergs and fields of ice, had rendered the passage extremely dangerous. Several of our passengers, and I among the number, had not entirely recovered from the effects of sea-sickness.

On the 27th of June the wind had come round favourably to the west, so that we were enabled to hoist a larger quantity of canvass. In the forenoon there was a heavy swell, which made me sea-sick. While labouring under this unpleasant sensation, it is difficult to conceive how men can expose themselves to the dangers of the sea, while there is a comfortable house and quiet bed at home. But scarcely is it over, or scarcely have we put foot on shore before all these inconveniences are forgotten, and one thinks little of embarking again. The sea gradually became more still, the weather charmingly warm, and an awning was spread over a part of the deck, under which we collected, and even the ladies, who had slowly recovered from sea-sickness, joined us, to breathe the fresh air. In the evening, we were regaled with music; one of the steerage passengers blew tolerably well on the bugle, amused his companions therewith, and we listened to his strains at a distance. There was some musical talent among ourselves; a young Scotch gentleman from Jamaica, named Leslie, played elegantly on the flute, and often delighted us. Several water birds followed our ship; it is a species of bird resembling a swallow, called petrel, and termed mother Carey’s chickens by sailors, who say that they never alight upon land, and as their nests are not readily found, it is hard to tell where they propagate. A large vessel, which we supposed to be either the Edward Quesnell or the John Wells, followed constantly in our wake; but our heavy press of sail kept us always in advance. It is a matter of surprise, how such a large quantity of sail can be managed by so few hands, for we had but fifteen sailors and two boys; however, the steerage passengers were obliged to lend a hand to the manœuvres on deck; there were thirteen of these on board; they are similar to the deck passengers in the steam-boats; they pay but little, provide their own provisions, and are narrowly lodged in a small place below decks, near the fore-mast, and are not allowed, unless when working, to show themselves abaft the mainmast, inasmuch as this place is solely reserved for the cabin passengers. On board our vessel, the sailors slept in quarters provided for them on the deck, between the fore-mast and the bowsprit.

During the whole of the 28th of June we were favoured with a prosperous breeze and fine weather. Our situation was, by a midday observation, 40° 3´ latitude, and 65° 4´ longitude. Since yesterday we had seen grass floating close to the ship. Thence we concluded that we had already entered the favouring Gulf Stream. The awning was again spread. Mrs. Cabell and Miss Marx, who had recovered by degrees from their indisposition, presented themselves to-day upon deck, and made a considerable change in the tedious uniformity of our late mode of living. In the evening Mr. Leslie brought his flute, and delighted us with music; finally, we began to dance on deck, although from the motion of the ship it did not succeed well.

On the 29th of June, both wind and weather continued favourable to us; otherwise things remained as before. Captain Croker, who did every thing in his power to entertain his passengers, set off in the evening a couple of rockets, and other fire-works, which afforded us much pleasure. Mr. Croker, who is very experienced in a seafaring life, related us many of his adventures on the deep, which we found very interesting. We twice perceived swarms of flying fish arise from the water, which after flying a considerable distance, plunged anew into their native element; they did not, however, come sufficiently near to enable us to observe them distinctly. A large dolphin likewise made its appearance, and we were still escorted by mother Carey’s chickens, and saw numerous sea-gulls.

On the 30th of June no change; wind favourable, weather fine and clear, and a curiosity in natural history! We generally kept a pair of hooks in our wake. One of these hooks had caught a mollusc which goes by the name of Portuguese man-of-war. It is of a violet colour, and has a spongy body with long feelers and two bladders, the largest of which is about the size of a carp. This bladder the animal fills with air at pleasure, in order to enable itself to swim, and when the sun shines upon it, it displays very fine colours. Otherwise we caught nothing, as heretofore, because fish most generally avoid copper-bottomed vessels, such as ours. In the evening we saw in the ship’s wake the phosphoric sealight.

Under a continually favourable wind, we made great progress on the 2d of July, and had the agreeable certainty of leaving the bank of Newfoundland behind us, so that we had reason to hope, during the remainder of our voyage, not to be again incommoded by fogs; latitude 41° 24´, longitude 50°. Notwithstanding the constantly favourable and fresh breezes, the sea was so smooth, that our ship had no more motion than if we were sailing on a stream. And thus passed off the third of July; the air, which had thus far been very warm, became to-day rather cool, which made our cabin very comfortable. At a cable’s length from our vessel we perceived a numerous herd of porpoises, which were sporting on the surface of the water; latitude 42°, longitude 46° 48´.

The 4th of July was the fiftieth anniversary of the Declaration of American Independence; it was of course duly celebrated on board our vessel. The American flag was hoisted early, and at dinner more wine than usual, and of various kinds, was drank freely. Several toasts were proposed: Mr. Croker drank the health of the King of England; whereupon Dr. Garret proposed that of the President of the United States; I gave Governor Clinton’s; thereupon followed a great many of like kind. We were pretty gay and cheerful, and drank till tolerably late. Several gentlemen got head-aches, and became sea-sick; and many laughable scenes took place. I stole into my state-room, in order to avoid similar mishap.

On the 5th of July we had the good fortune to meet a large whale, which spouted the water high above him in all directions. He did not, however, honour us a long time with his presence, but pursued his course, and we ours, though with much greater velocity; for at the usual meridian observation, we found our latitude 44° 9´ and our longitude 39° 38´. In the morning we had little wind, but when towards evening it freshened, we made from eight to nine miles an hour. Up to this period our voyage had been most prosperous, continually fair wind and the sea very smooth. During three days we had seen a brig at the distance of some miles from us, which was going on the same course, but our ship being a better sailer, we left it to-day considerably behind.

On the 7th of July, weather dull, with occasional rain; which rendered it cold and uncomfortable. Latitude 46° 50´, longitude 30° 31´; wind towards afternoon rather strong, sea running very high with the wind in our stern; this increased the motion of our ship, which was constantly pitching from one side to the other. What was not properly fastened gave way. This gave rise to many droll scenes. The ladies, who were unaccustomed to this new unpleasantness attending a sea voyage, became frightened; they conceived that danger was near, and we had considerable trouble in allaying their fears. One of them entreated in the most affecting manner, several gentlemen, who were whiling away their time at a game of whist, and others who were engaged at back-gammon, not to bring down the vengeance of heaven, and not to increase the danger that surrounded us, by sinful card-playing and unholy back-gammon! But there was no danger whatever to apprehend, though the rolling of the vessel was unpleasant; the passengers scarcely knew where to go, or what to do, for it was even impossible to sleep, inasmuch as the shocking rolling threatened us with a fall from our beds.

We pursued our course swiftly during the 8th of July. Latitude 47° 58´, longitude 25° 10´. In the forenoon the sea was calmer, but during the afternoon, and particularly in the evening, it ran so high that the ship pitched more than yesterday. The weather was, during the whole of the day, unpleasant, cloudy, and rainy, and it was with the greatest difficulty that we kept our feet on the wet deck. In the evening, I observed again in the sea the phosphoric light; some parts of the water sparkled like fireflies.⁷⁵ We overtook a brig, apparently bound on our course; on this occasion we once more remarked what a good sailer the Pacific is, for when we discovered the brig, she was far ahead of us, and although she had all her sails set, we not only soon overtook her, but soon left her far behind us. We did not approach her sufficiently near to speak. During this damp weather, I acknowledged the superior construction of the Pacific to that of the Pallas; whilst in the latter the moisture penetrated throughout, and exerted its noxious influence on a variety of articles liable to rot, and spread through the whole vessel an insupportable foul smell; every thing in the Pacific was dry, and in our cabin we had not suffered at all from the existing humidity.

The night of the 8th and 9th of July I passed very unpleasantly, owing to the rolling of the vessel; I was every moment on the point of falling out of my bed, and it was only towards six o’clock in the morning that I began to enjoy some repose. The day brought with it clear weather. The wind had been so favourable for the last twenty-four hours, that we found ourselves in latitude 48° 40´, and longitude 19° 12´. In the afternoon the wind became variable and blew from various quarters; we experienced several squalls accompanied by showers of rain. At last it set in strong from the north-west, and drove us forward at the rate of eleven miles per hour. Towards evening we came up with a vessel bound from Savannah for Liverpool, spoke her, and gave her our longitude. Their reckoning differed from ours, as they believed themselves to be in longitude 16°. The sea ran rather high while we were in the neighbourhood of this vessel, so that we could not have a long talk with her, nor even rightly understand her name. We left her far behind us.

On the 10th of July, the wind continued favourable, there was a heavy swell of the sea, and much motion in the vessel. The weather clearing off towards noon, we were enabled to make exact observations, which we could not do for some days before, on account of the cloudy weather. It appeared, that we had made a small mistake in our computation of the longitude, for by the precise observation of this day, we found our latitude to be fifty degrees twenty-two minutes, and our longitude seventeen degrees. We saw already several birds, a proof that we were approaching land; we continually saw petrels and mother Carey’s chickens. The more we sailed northwards, we felt the air becoming cooler, which created in me no pleasant sensation.

The 11th of July was rather windy and rainy; in other respects matters remained in statu quo. Latitude fifty degrees thirty minutes, longitude twelve degrees fifty-five minutes. We hoped to find ourselves on the next day on the Nymph bank, which stretches from the south of Ireland, far into the sea, nor were we deceived in our expectations, for very early on the 12th of July, we experienced an uncommonly heavy motion, and the waves ran as high as in a storm, although the wind was not strong. This served as an assurance, that we had attained the Nymph bank. The motion of the sea here is caused by the pressure of great masses of water upon the bank, whereby the under water is cast up, and driven with great force towards the surface. The lead was hove for soundings several times since midnight, as we lay still too far to the south, to be governed by landmarks; had the weather not been so hazy, we could easily have distinguished Cape Clear, the south-westernmost point of Ireland, consisting of a single high rock, jutting out into the sea, and provided with a light-house. While we were seated at dinner, land was discovered. We mounted on deck, and beheld the high coast of the county of Cork in Ireland; the weather continued so hazy and rainy, that we could not have a clear and fine view of the land. I was surprised at the indifference with which I contemplated the first European land that now met my view, and particularly when I compared this indifference with the joyful enthusiasm, with which, one year past, on the 24th of July. I put my foot for the first time on the soil of America! But at that time every thing was new to me, and my expectations were wrought up to the highest pitch; now on the contrary, I could only expect to see what was generally familiar. After dinner we perceived off the coast of Ireland, two islands with high hills, called the Saltees, and near them a three-masted ship, as a floating light at anchor. We met likewise a steam-boat, bound from Milford in Wales, to Waterford in Ireland. It lay rather low in the water, and as the wind blew strong from the west, the sea ran so high, that I did not at all envy the condition of the passengers in the steam-boat, over whose deck the waves were constantly beating. The sight of land made our passengers more cheerful, and towards evening we became more happy than usual.